GEL POLISH Application guide
How to Apply Professional Gel Polish to create a Flawless Gel Manicure
These tips work great for Akzéntz Luxio, Ugly Duckling, En Vogue, Le Chat, Profiles and other professional gel polish we carry.
Even the best gel polish performs its best when it’s applied correctly. Proper nail preparation, thin controlled application, correct curing, and choosing the right base for your client can make all the difference.
Follow this step-by-step guide for a beautiful, professional gel polish application.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
Before beginning your service, have the following products and tools ready:
- Akzéntz Prep & Wipe
- 180-grit file or buffer
- Lint-free wipes
- Gel Polish Base Coat of your choosing (Base, X-Bond, Super Bond, Etc)
- Your favorite Colour
- Top Gloss like Luxio Gloss or Shine-On
- LED lamp
- Cuticle tools
- Cuticle oil
Depending on your client’s natural nails, another bonding or structure product may also be appropriate. To do the 30 day Manicure, Jess uses Trinity as her base coat.
STEP 1: PREP THE NATURAL NAIL
Beautiful, long-lasting gel application starts with proper preparation.
Shape the natural nail and perform your preferred cuticle preparation. Carefully remove non-living tissue from the nail plate, paying particular attention to the cuticle area and sidewalls.
Using a 180-grit file, gently remove the surface shine from the natural nail.
You are not trying to aggressively file or thin the natural nail. The goal is simply to prepare the surface for proper product adhesion.
Thoroughly cleanse the nail with Jess's Prep Combo. This is a mixture of about 75-80% Akzéntz Prep & Wipe and 20-25% pure Acetone. This combination not only allows for a clean prep, but the acetone does a great job as a dehydrator and the two of them pair to remove all dust and contaminants.
PRO TIP
Pay close attention to the cuticle area and sidewalls. Product applied over remaining cuticle or allowed to touch the surrounding skin can contribute to lifting.
STEP 2: APPLY BASE
Apply a thin, even layer of Base coat.
Start toward the center of the nail and carefully guide the product toward the cuticle without touching the skin. Smooth the product evenly toward the free edge. This should be applied very thinly.
CURE: 30 SECONDS
Cure in a good quality lamp for 30 seconds. We highly recommend the Akzentz lamp but for those wanting a rechargeable lamp, grab the one from Ugly Duckling. On a budget? Luminex is also a great lamp from Le Chat
Do not remove the inhibition layer after curing.
Continue directly to your Color application.
HAVING RETENTION PROBLEMS?
Don't automatically assume you need more primer.
First evaluate:
- Nail preparation
- Cuticle removal
- Product thickness
- Gel touching the skin
- Proper curing
- Client aftercare
Different nail types may also benefit from different Professional bonding products.
X-Bond can be a great option for thin or damaged natural nails, while Super Bond may be helpful for clients with oily nail plates or excessive moisture.
Ugly Duckling Prep, Primer and Rubber Ducky are popular prep products.
Choosing the correct foundation for the client can make a major difference in retention.
STEP 3: APPLY YOUR FIRST COAT OF COLOR
First, if you notice your color looks marbled on the brush wand or that there is clear gel mixed with color on your brush it may need mixed better. This often happens with colors that haven't bee used in awhile. You may also notice color shrinking from the edges. These are all signs you may need to mix your color better; shaking won't do it. I highly suggest having a spatula for this purpose, its a game changer! Click HERE for the spatula. Give it a good mix and you will see much nicer application.
Choose your shade and apply a thin, controlled layer over the nail.
Carefully guide the brush toward the cuticle without touching the skin, then pull the color smoothly toward the free edge.
Professional brands are highly pigmented, so you don't need a heavy application to achieve beautiful coverage. Too much and you may not have a great cure,
CURE: 30 SECONDS
Cure your first coat in a LED lamp for 30 seconds. Flash curing is NOT recommended with color. This can allow the top bit of color to cure but the bottom to not cure, causing wrinkling before you even get your second coat on.
Jess's PRO TIP
Thin coats are important.
Applying more product does not necessarily give you better coverage. Heavy coats can interfere with proper curing and make it more difficult to create a smooth, professional finish.
STEP 4: APPLY YOUR SECOND COAT
Apply a second thin layer of Color using the same controlled technique.
The second coat perfects your coverage and creates the rich, even color Luxio is known for.
CURE: 30 SECONDS
Cure in a LED lamp for 30 seconds.
WANT THAT PERFECT CUTICLE LINE?
For an especially crisp application, use a fine liner brush to carefully bring the color closer to the cuticle area.
Never allow uncured gel to touch the client's skin as this can eventually lead to allergy.
STEP 5: CHOOSE YOUR FINISH
Your top coat determines the final look and feel of the manicure.
GLOSS
For a classic high-shine finish, apply Gloss evenly over the entire nail. Use Shine On or Diamond Shine On for a no wipe surface. Luxio Gloss is perfect for any glitter as it is slightly thicker and allow you to float your gloss over any tiny bumps.
Jess's PRO TIP
Don't drag your brush when applying gloss. If your bristles flare when you apply gloss, you are removing gloss as you apply it causing a finish that is not as glossy as it could be.
CURE: 30 SECONDS
After curing, remove the inhibition layer using Jess's Prep Combo.
MATTE-ON
Want to completely change the look of your Luxio color?
Finish with Akzéntz Matte-On for a smooth, velvety matte effect. Ugly Duckling Matte has also won awards for its perfect Matte Top Gloss!
One color can take on an entirely different personality simply by changing the finish.
THE SECRET TO LONG-LASTING LUXIO
When a Luxio manicure chips or lifts prematurely, it's easy to blame the color.
But retention actually begins long before the color is applied.
For the best results, pay attention to:
Proper Nail Preparation
Make sure the nail plate is properly prepared and free from contaminants.
Complete Cuticle Removal
Non-living tissue remaining on the nail plate can interfere with adhesion.
Thin Product Application
More product isn't better. Thin, controlled layers allow the system to perform as intended.
Keep Gel Off the Skin
Avoid flooding the cuticle and sidewalls.
Proper Curing
Always use the appropriate lamp and follow curing recommendations for the specific line you are using.
Choose the Right Base
Not every client's nails are the same. Selecting the appropriate base or bonding product can dramatically improve retention.
GEL POLISH APPLICATION AT A GLANCE
1. PREP
Perform cuticle work, gently remove the shine with a 180-grit file, and thoroughly cleanse the nail.
2. BASE
Apply a thin layer of Base.
Cure: 30 seconds
3. FIRST COLOR COAT
Apply a thin, even layer of Color.
Cure: 30 seconds
4. SECOND COLOR COAT
Apply another thin layer.
Cure: 30 seconds
5. FINISH
Apply your chosen top coat and cure according to the product instructions.
6. COMPLETE THE SERVICE
Cleanse if your chosen top coat requires it and finish with cuticle oil.
Jess's PRO TIP
Use a terry cloth towel to rub the nail with oil at the very end of the service. This will allow you to rub the oil onto their fingers to rehydrate the skin.
SHOP PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS
From everyday salon staples to the newest seasonal collections, LuvNailz carries professional gel colors, bases, top coats, and essentials for nail professionals.
SHOP GEL POLISH COLORS
Discover gorgeous shades for every season, style, and client.
SHOP BASE COATS & PRIMER
Create the right foundation for beautiful, long-lasting nails.
SHOP TOP COATS & GLOSS
Choose the perfect finishing touch—from brilliant shine to modern matte.
PROFESSIONAL USE
Akzéntz, Ugly Duckling, en Vogue, Le Chat and Profiles products are professional nail products. Always follow the manufacturer's current application, curing, safety, and product-use instructions for the specific products being used.